Just to set the scene- ultimate song from childhood. Hm, I remember listening to this record when I was little brings back the greatest memories. What is your all time favourite song as a youngster?

I was so very excited to discover this museum- excitment is possibly an understatement really.

Originally, I planned to use this material which I purchased late last year I think in Gardems in Brisbane. It definitely has a lovely 1950′s feel to it, which is what I was originally after. I was planning on using either a dark blue or white as the contrast for the top piece and a belt.  

But I was feeling a bit reluctant as mentioned in last post about using the full circle skirt. And also did not have good enough fabric for lining.

So instead, I used a second hand sheet for the top, and polycotton for the skirt. It is fully lined with the sheeting. I’m so glad that I didn’t use the original fabric, because there were so many little issues to be ironed out.

(my husband is very happily responsible for ‘choreographing’ these photos)

As pattern review asks, ’does the finished product look like picture on pattern?’. I am disappointed to say that it did not transform me into this elegant clothes horse on the front and feeling a bit frumpy before it was finished. But I guess that’s not what they’re talking about. I think it is the lovely water colour or maybe that super polished beautiful 50′s look that got me on this, because I don’t normally have model envy. I’m pretty happy with the overall finish now.  It was a pretty good challenge for my level of sewing skills at the moment. It took far longer to make than I had expected, but was such a good learning experience. It was also a lovely remembering that I had not ever completely finished the lining on my wedding dress (only lined dress made before this one) as lovely Kirsty had so generously hand stitched it in place the day before the wedding (when I was freaking out) instead of sorting out the eft-pos machine for her new shop.  

I think I will make this again, just because I have the extra fabric and I think it would be a really good opportunity to consolidate things learnt from this.

Things I’d change for next time:

- Use full circle skirt, but shorten probably to just about the knee.

- Go for a size down for front part of bodice for slightly snugger fit. I instinctively reduced the side seam for the back piece by aprox 3/8 inch from top to side bust dart before stitching (must transfer this buiso to muslin!!!)

- Use a more suitable lining fabric for the bodice. I think that use of sheeting underneath is partly responsible for some of crinkling.

- Mark modified darts CLEARLY on muslin so they can be consistently transferred to both shell and lining fabric. Originally the darts in the lining were way off those on the shell. After lots of messing around I got them to sort of match, but I think this is also partly responsible for some wrinkles.

- I extended the side bust darts for better fit, but you can see the dart poking out from the top band, which would have been concealed with original dart. I don’t really see how this is avoidable for good fit, and would consider taking in even a little more on these darts.

-Possibly shorten the front darts about 2cm so they finish on the apex of the bust to avoid pointedness (I think that is the nicer and correct alternative to saying nipple right?)

- I think the bodice could have been shortened just a little at the waist, because I feel like the top band is just a little too high for comforts sake on under the arm pit.

- Reduced the back straps by roughly one inch in length.

- I’d consider using a light fusible webbing on the top band just for a little extra stability. The hand stitching to attach the  band is pretty sloppy, because I was a bit fed up with the dress at that stage. I would definitely still use the technique they’d recommended for attaching the top band, which is completely sewn together first before attaching to main dress. Would mark stitch lines before sewing though, because it has to be absolutely spot on for accurate fit on bodice (was fudged slightly this time though). Also must remember to increase width according to increase in bodice.

- I persevered with the lapped zipper for the sake of a learning experience. Once I’d figured out how to modify the side  in lining and shell to do this, it wasn’t a drama to insert, but I’d definitely go for an invisible zip next time to save all the fussing around!

Right, am off to finish stitching Lady Grey Muslin for sew-along. Am so very far behind!!!

I stitched it up last night and found that it is way way too small. Sigh.

The pattern was originally cut at an 8 (I’m not sure whether I cut it at this because I assumed it would be a size too big as per usual, but am beginning to think Vogue is a lot more exact with fit than other commercials). I think I need roughly a 12 and the pattern only goes to 10.

A progression of muslin fittings and modifications:

1. Increased pattern to a rough 12, trying to copy increases as per pattern’s. The weird thing is, according to the pattern, my bust should fit size 12, and the rest a size 10. I found that to be able to breathe, it was definitely going to have to be a size 12 all over., with reductions to the bust darts and seam line at bust also.

2. Increased the length of the back darts, making them far more tapered.

3. Decreased the width at the base of the darts to accommodate for hips starting pretty much as soon as my rib  cage ends. So the darts at the back are sort of crescent shaped. I don’t have a photo of this stage which seemed to smooth things out a little better.

These seem like pretty basic modifications and I’m still not entirely confident about the fit. I would really love to learn more about fitting to different body shapes etc. Any suggestions on the fit situation going on here??!!

The question is, will I wear this dress on a regular basis?? I’d like to say yes- I really do love this retro early 50′s look so much. Maybe if I shorten the hemline to a bit above the knees? But practically, with all the ironing involved, I think it might be a bit more occasional. Next post, I’m going to have a more serious think about some of the things I might need to keep this project going!____________________________________________

Lady-Grey sew along progress (well, start really)

Trying to avoid procrastination with the Lady Grey coat, I have traced the pattern. I admit, I haven’t really read the finer details about alternative things to trace onto other than grease proof paper,  but I’m pretty sure it’s all I’d find on Isle of Wight anyway. Still yet to find fabric, and suitable muslin material as a result.

I’m so glad I haven’t started sewing the muslin yet, because Gertie has been posting some pretty handy tips. Things I have learnt so far:

- When sewing princess seams, notch the least curvy piece of fabric before sewing. Then cut v’s from other side, to correspond with notches. I’ve tried this notching bisso before, but attacked both sides first. Given her suggestion, I think it possibly gave too much flexibility to fabric.

- Tracing seam outline with stitches on muslin. This is preceded by using a tracing wheel and carbon paper to mark seam line. I’ve kind of tried this concept before by cutting away seam allowance on traced pattern piece and then tracing onto fabric, but I think her method is definitely more time efficient and precise.

Next step will be trying to make a tailor’s ham, using this tutorial on Burda Style.

 It’s times like this that make me feel self-righteous about being a vegetarian. After meeting this little fellow at  the Abbey farm down the road, I had this discussion with my husband:

M: ‘Could you eat him, if you had met him pre-slaughter, seriously?’

Husband: ‘Probably not’

Husband is definitely not a vegetarian, and conversation continues with me ranting on about how hypocritical I think most meat eaters are, not wanting to connect the reality of where the meat comes from and the industry generated by it. He has no qualms with disconnecting from the origin of the meat or what it means for the meat’s pre-slaughter, animal life. I really do not mean to offend, and accept that most people don’t see things this way. Except for my poor husband, I try actively not to push my thoughts about conscious food consumption on others.

In this heated discussion, he raised a good point. If I had such an issue with supporting industry that I did not find ethical, then how could I buy mass produced clothing without also considering where it came from? ‘Why don’t you sew all your own clothes instead?’ he suggested. I reflected on a recent shopping trip to a huge high-street store with shirts for only a few pounds, just because it was the cheapest. I felt sick. What makes it OK for us to selectively ignore certain realities for the sake of fashion, or convenience? Or in my case, choose to use one set of values for one cause and not another. So I decided to have a self-imposed year of no new clothing purchases and to sew my wardrobe instead. There are so many ways of making this world a better place, I know. But there has to be a beginning somewhere right?

Aside from ethical reasons, I realised that I have probably been winding up to this project for some time. I really dislike most off the rack clothing widely available in my price range. As someone who prefers just a few favourite, sturdy clothes, I hate the way clothing is almost disposable. This will not be about starvation from clothing (which I guess would involve mainly nudity, v. unfortunately not as easily accepted), more a celebration of quality handmade clothing, style and conscious clothing choices. So I feel like I’m taking a step back in time to an era where the average woman had to sew her wardrobe, only it’s a luxury to have a choice. I dream that this year will be like producing my very own home-couture, but my dress making skills really must come a long way before that I think!

After making this project decision, I had a look around on the net and realised that I was not alone. For some time now, the handmade movement and what it stands for has been gathering strength, and I guess the whole economic ‘situation’ has made people far more conscious about consumerism also. But I didn’t know that there is a whole range of people going on ‘no-shop’ years, with some also substituting purchases by only wearing hand-made or recycled items. Alex (aka really amazing woman- you really should check out her blog) has dubbed this movement as ‘slow fashion’, like the ‘slow food’ movement. I really look forward to meeting these people in blog land and hearing about their experiences, and thoughts about longer term sustainability of their projects. I really hope that after a year of mad sewing to build up a wardrobe, I should have enough to keep it going for many years to come. 

I think though with these lifestyle choices, that there are some little practicalities that are pretty hard to get around. Like avoiding gelatine and not drinking bear (which involves fish products- can you believe it!) as a vegetarian. And honestly, for this project to last a year, I think there will be one or two foreseeable exceptions:

- Topping up underwear supply as needed, including tights 

- Purchasing second-hand and repurpose, however the main aim will be to create handmade clothing.

- I will try recycle fabric and habadashery items as much as possible, but know that the project will involve purchasing new supplies at times.

-  I’m due to start work soon, so a comfy pair of new shoes may need to be bought. Longer term health issues caused by lack of appropriate footwear may not be so kind to the struggling health system.

 Right! Back next week, hopefully with some clothes in progress.